Rooster's Haven

Equine, Pet & People Services

In home Ranch Care & Pet Sitting for the Reno, NV and South Bay (San Francisco, CA area)

Thank you for choosing Rooster's Haven!  Now taking new clients in the North Reno NV area!

Pet Sitting & Ranch Services:


Abby, Wally & Katrina

Rooster's Haven wants to thank you all for a great year!  We appreciate your business,
please remember us the next time you book your travel.

Due to the failing economy we have cut back some of our service area.  Although some service is limited - we urge you to call and book early - the holiday's are here again. 

We service North & West Reno, NV and we still service San Jose, CA foothills, North San Jose, Willow Glen, Campbell, Milpitas & foothills, Fremont, Sunnyvale, Mountain View, & parts of Almaden.  We have a pet sitter that will cover Atherton, Woodside & Portola Valley!
 

Ranch care & Pet sitting your dog, cat, bird, small animal & horses too!  - and how about Bunnies, Cows, Goats, Chickens - yup we do it all!

This is ARIAT - she is the smartest Border Collie!

Here is Rocky and Sparkles:

Pet Sitting and House Sitting Rates

Andrea's Moca

SF BAY AREA call: 408-431-2273 or email: roosters_haven@yahoo.com
Rates as follows for SF BAY AREA:

Rates as of November 1, 2009

Interview is a one time fee of $20.  This sets up a file with instructions and allows you to meet with your care provider, and allows the pets to meet with the care provider.  This is very important for establishing a relationship between Rooster's and you.

Cats:  One or two $19 per visit, three cats $22.00 per visit.

Dogs:  One $20 per visit.  Two dogs $23 per visit.  Three dogs $25 per visit

Small animals (birds, hamsters, rats, guinea pigs etc)  $15 per visit

Horses:  One horse $25 per visit, two horses $28 per visit, three horses $30 per visit

Overnight & house sitting: just call for our good rates -this will vary depending on location, type of sit and care needed.

*NOTE: extra for large birds or specialized animals/rodents/reptiles, or combo of fish.  If one day falls on a holiday there is a $12 fee.

Walking or exercising: 1/2 hour, additional $12 per visit.  Please call for arrangements with horses.

Holiday:  If your visit falls on a holiday then their is an additional fee of $10 per visit.

TBD: vet trips, administration of meds, first aid, exercising, stall cleaning, blanketing etc: case will be determined on case by case basis.

Call if you have more then three cats or dogs, horses or other combos such as livestock.  We will need to set an appointment up to come evaluate the job.  We cannot give a quote over the phone for a ranch sit, however WE CAN TAILOR TO YOUR NEEDS SO JUST LET US KNOW WHAT YOU NEED.  WE HAVE DISCOUNTED RATES FOR LONG TERM CARE.  We also discount depending on where you are located.  If you are close to a service provider then we can give you a "gas" discount.

We do plant watering, take in your mail, put out your garbage and rotate lighting so that it appears you are home.  We can also schedule an overnight stays if needed.

Cindy's Tio & Amigo

WE ARE LICENSED, BONDED AND INSURED
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RENO North Valleys:  CALL  775-677-4307
or email: roosters_haven@yahoo.com

Rates for Reno AREAS 11/1/09:

Cats:  One or two $15 per visit, three cats $18.00 per visit.

Dogs:  One $16 per visit.  Two dogs $18 per visit.  Three dogs $21 per visit

Small animals (birds, hamsters, rats, guinea pigs etc)  $15 per visit

Horses:  One horse $20 per visit, two horses $22 per visit, three horses $25 per visit

ANY COMBOS  (example, up to 3 cats, and 3 dogs & fish, mix/match)  For daily rate or for farm/livestock animals and combos of farm, livestock and horses please call for rates.  We need to set up an appointment to come out and see your ranch/home.  The rate will depend on locations, type of sit, amount of time that will be spent etc.  This is not something that we can quote over the phone effectively - so lets make an appointment.

If your visit(s) fall on a holiday then there is a addional $10 fee per visit.

Overnight & house sitting: just call for our good rates

Walking or exercising: 1/2 hour, additional $10 per visit.  Please call for arrangements with horses.

TBD: vet trips, administration of meds, first aid, exercising, stall cleaning, blanketing etc: case will be determined on case by case basis.  We can transport your horse to the vet if needed. 

Call if you have more then three cats or dogs, horses or other combos such as livestock.  WE CAN TAYLOR TO YOUR NEEDS SO JUST LET US KNOW WHAT YOU NEED.  WE HAVE DISCOUNTED RATES FOR LONG TERM CARE.

All customers will have an interview fee(one time fee of $15).  The interview is very important since you will have a 'file' set up and you get to meet your service provider and the animals get to meet the service provider.  We will not give service if we have not met with you prior.  So please make the "interview" the first priority.  Book early since we fill up on holidays.
We come out, meet the animals and we make a file. You give us instructions and we follow them to a "T"

Ralphie & Katrina Dec 2007

Profiles

Meet Karen!  Karen has over 10 years experience as a professional pet sitter as well as a professional in the Silicon Valley high tech industry.  Karen joined the Rooster's team in 2007 and is available for the Atherton, Woodside & Portola Valley area.

We also have WENDY for Santa Clara, Sunnyvale & Mountain View, CA  Wendy has over 10 years pet sitting experience!

and CLAIRE for San Jose, South San Jose, Morgan Hill and Gilroy, CA.  Claire is great with horses and loves kitty's.  She owns 3 horses (one is a Mustang) and rescues cats in her spare time.

Of course there is Katrina (owner) and Ron that can take care of your farm, ranch, equine, dog, cat and small animals as well!

In RENO, we have Roger, John and of course Ron and Katrina.

 

WHY WE ROCK!

(are good at what we do):
myspace layouts, myspace codes, glitter graphics

We simply have a lifetime of experience and love with animals, caring for horses, chickens, dogs, cats, rats, guinea pigs, lizards,

squirrels, fish and more!  We are first aid and CPR trained (you and your pet).  Since we deal with animals daily we keep up to date on illnesses, diseases, technology, and what to do if we recognize an ailment. 

We have pet sitting in your home.  Pets are more stressed when they have to be driven to a new place (kennel or Auntie May's) and if they need medication.  Plus being around new environments that cause stress, can also cause sickness.  We make sure that we are disinfected/clean when we make our visits, which ensures no disease will enter your home.

We will care for your pet; we offer services such as; take in your mail, rotate lights, clean the cat box (pick up after your dog etc), walk the dog, blanket the horse & or administer medication.  Just ask and if it's reasonable we will probably be able to accommodate your request.

SEE KATRINA'S PROFILE UNDER HORSE SHOWS AT THE VERY END

Kathy & Rob's Turkey:

one of their darling goats:


 

We are proud members of Pet Sitters International

http://www.petsit.com/home.asp

We are licenced, Bonded and Insured in both small & large animals (ranch/livestock). 

We hold commercial liability insurance, care,custody & control - so ask your

current pet sitter what do they have to cover you in case of an accident?

or we encourage you to shop around and

ask other sitters about their insurance...are they covered & if so what kind? 

This makes us stand out from the competition!

Up to date info on Pet Food/ Pet issues

Keep up to date by clicking on these websites below - stay informed
********************************************************

Raisin's and Grapes can be harmful to your dog!  TRUE!
Chocolate can be deadly!

see why here

******************************************************************

ASPCA website: http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=recall

http://www.howl911.com/petfoodrecall.htm#foods     
Pet food recall news from Purina

Check these sites for more info.


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MORGAN HILL DOG OWNERS:

http://http://www.morganhilldog.org/index.html


Destructive Chewing

Destructive Chewing
It is normal for dogs to explore the world with their mouths. However, chewing can be directed onto appropriate
items so your dog is not destroying items you value. Until he has learned what he can and cannot chew, it is your
responsibility to manage the situation as much as possible, so he doesn’t have the opportunity to chew on
unacceptable objects.

Taking Control by Managing the Situation
Take responsibility for your own belongings. If you don’t want it in your dog’s mouth, don’t make it available.
Keep clothing, shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses, cell phones and remote controls out of your dog’s reach.
Don’t confuse your dog by offering him shoes and socks as toys and then expect him to distinguish between
his shoe and yours. Your dog’s toys should be obviously different from household goods.
Until he learns the house rules, confine him when you are unable to keep an eye on him. Choose a “safe
place” that is dog proof with fresh water and “safe” toys.
If your dog is crate trained, you may also crate him for short periods of time.
Give your dog plenty of people time. Your dog won’t know how to behave if you don’t teach him alternatives
to inappropriate behavior and he can’t learn these when in the yard by himself.
Take your dog to an obedience class to teach him important commands, like “leave it.” Classes may have
the added benefit of reducing destructive behavior because they will help your dog burn off some excess
energy.
If, and only if, you actually catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a
loud noise and offer him an acceptable chew toy instead. Praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his
mouth.
Have realistic expectations. It is virtually inevitable that your dog will, at some point, chew up something you
value. This is often part of the transition to a new home.
Chewing is normal teething and investigative puppy behavior.
however, dogs will engage in destructive behavior for a variety of reasons. In order to deal with
the behavior, you must first determine why your dog is being destructive.

Play, Boredom and/or Social Isolation
Normal play behavior can result in destruction, as it may involve digging, chewing, shredding and/or shaking toy-like
objects. Since dogs investigate objects by pawing at them and exploring them with their mouths, they may
inadvertently damage items in their environment.
Your dog may be chewing for entertainment if:
He’s left alone for long time periods without opportunities for interaction with you or other family members.
His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.
He’s a puppy or adolescent (under 3 years old) and he doesn’t have other outlets for his energy.
He’s a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs an active lifestyle to be
happy.

Solutions:
Play with your dog daily in a safe, fenced-in area. If you don’t have a yard, a tennis court can be a good
place to play. Fetch is a great game that will use up your dog’s excess energy without wearing you out!
Go for a walk. Walks should be more than just “bathroom time.” On-leash walks are important opportunities
for you and your dog to be together. Don’t forget to allow time for sniffing, exploring, instruction and praise.
Increase your dog’s opportunities for mental stimulation. Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks and
practice them daily. If you have time, take an obedience class.
Provide your dog with lots of toys.
Rotate your dog’s toys to refresh his interest in them. “New” toys are always more interesting than old ones.
Try different kinds of toys, but when you introduce a new toy, watch your dog to make sure he won’t tear it up
and ingest the pieces.
Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food. Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys
focuses your dog’s chewing activities on these toys instead of on unacceptable objects.
Make your dog’s favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive to him by covering them with heavy plastic,
aluminum foil, hot pepper sauce or a commercial “anti-chew” product.
Consider a good doggie day care program for two or three days a week to work off some of your dog’s
excess energy.

Separation Anxiety
Dogs with separation anxiety tend to display behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to their owners. This includes
following you from room to room, frantic greetings and reacting anxiously to your preparation to leave the house.
Factors that can precipitate a separation anxiety problem:
A change in the family’s schedule that results in your dog being left alone more often.
A move to a new house.
The death or loss of a family member or another family pet.
A period at a shelter or boarding kennel.
These behaviors are not motivated by spite or revenge, but by anxiety. Punishment will only make the problem worse.
Separation anxiety can be resolved by using counter conditioning and desensitization techniques.

Attention-Seeking Behavior
Without realizing it, we often pay more attention to our dogs when they are misbehaving. Dogs who don’t receive
much attention and reinforcement for appropriate behavior may engage in destructive behavior when their owners
are present as a way to attract attention – even if the attention is “negative,” such as a verbal scolding. From a dog’s
point of view, negative attention is better than no attention at all.

Solutions:
Make sure your dog gets plenty of positive attention every day – playing, walking, grooming or just petting.
Ignore (as much as possible) bad behavior and reward only good behavior. Remember to reward your dog
with praise and petting when he’s playing quietly with appropriate toys.
Make his favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive or unavailable to him. Use aversives on objects that
cannot be put away.
Teach your dog a “drop it” command so when he does pick up an off-limits object, you can use your
command and praise him for complying. The best way to teach “drop it” is to practice having him exchange
a toy in his possession for a tidbit of food.
Practice “Nothing in Life is Free” with your dog.  This gets your dog in
the habit of complying with your commands and is a good way to make sure he gets lots of positive attention
for doing the right things – so he won’t have to resort to being naughty just to get your attention.

Fears and Phobias
Some dogs are afraid of loud noises. Your dog’s destructive behavior may be caused by fear if the destruction
occurs when he’s exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers or construction sounds, and if the
primary damage is to doors, doorframes, window coverings, screens or walls.

What Not To Do
Punishment is rarely effective in resolving destructive behavior problems and can even make them worse. Never
discipline your dog after-the-fact. If you discover an item your dog has chewed even just a few minutes later, it is too
late to administer a correction. Your dog doesn’t understand that, “I chewed those shoes an hour ago and that’s
why I’m being scolded now.” People often believe their dog makes this connection because he runs and hides or
“looks guilty.” Dogs don’t feel guilt; rather they display submissive postures like cowering, running away or hiding,
when they feel threatened by an angry tone of voice, body posture or facial expression. Your dog doesn’t know that
he’s done something wrong; he only knows that you’re upset. Punishment after-the-fact will not only fail to eliminate
the undesirable behavior, but may also provoke other undesirable behaviors.

More on Destructive Chewing

Inappropriate Chewing

All dogs love to chew. It is as natural as barking or digging. Puppies, like young children, explore the world with their mouths. Dogs between six months and one year old are getting their adult teeth, and chew to relieve teething pain and itching gums. Adults dogs chew for a variety of reasons: out of boredom, loneliness, or just because it's fun.

Teaching your dog to gnaw on appropriate items, while preventing him from inflicting serious damage on your home, can protect both your dog and your possessions.

When you catch your pooch in the act, take the item away. Teach him to bring things to you and reward him for that. If you yell and chase him, it will become a game of keep-away. Give him something he's allowed to chew on instead. Praise when he starts to chew on the proper toy.

He may chew out of anxiety while you are gone, choosing something with your scent on it, like the couch. When you leave, put something with your scent on it, like a t-shirt you’ve slept in, on the floor or in his crate for him to lie on. Crate him when you aren't able to supervise his activity. Have special chew treats he only gets when he is in his crate.

There is no point in punishing the dog once the damage is done. He may have done it hours ago, and have no idea what you are so upset about. He'll learn that when you come home you are mad, and he'll start cowering and looking guilty even when he hasn't done anything wrong.

Be sure your dog gets adequate exercise every day, and plenty of time with you, even if it is just lying at your feet. Boredom, loneliness, and excess energy often trigger destructive chewing. Keep a regular routine. Try to come home at the same time every evening, feed near the same time, etc. The stress of hunger or not knowing when you'll be back can trigger chewing.

Bitter apple, pepper juice, or lemon juice sprayed on inappropriate plants or other chewable items will deter his urge to chew them. Provide him with lots of acceptable chew toys. Try rotating his chew toys, to keep interest high.

Separation Anxiety

Does your dog hate to be left alone? Is he frantic to get to you when left outside? Are you unable to leave him alone in another room? In the car? Separation anxiety is an emotional disturbance where the dog is frantic when left alone, even for short periods.

Owners sometimes accidentally train their pet to be anxious. They over-nurture him with constant physical contact and conversation until he is unable to stand being alone. A dog that gets constant attention is unable to cope when you leave to go to work or the store.

Start to wean your dog from constant attention by limiting physical contact. Don't sit and absentmindedly pet him. Make him earn your attention. Don't let him lie on your feet or lean on you. Gradually teach him to sit happily across the room from you. You may have to tie him to a doorknob initially The first few minutes will be the worst, so try to keep him busy with a favorite chew toy or treat.

Teach him to relax alone. Put him in a room where he is comfortable. If he starts to whine or scratch, throw a bean bag at the closed door to startle him. You don’t want him to associate the noise with you, so be quiet. When he is quiet for a few seconds, let him out and ignore him for the first minute or two. Repeat the exercise, gradually working up from a few seconds to several minutes.

Is the dog sleeping in your bed? Teach him to sleep on the floor by tying his leash to a dresser leg. You are still right there, just not touching him every second. As he gets used to this, put up a pet gate, and let him sleep just outside the doorway. As he gets used to less physical contact he will become more self-reliant.

Crate train your dog so he will be in a safe confined place while you are gone. He won't feel responsible for the entire house and can relax. Start by teaching him to be in the crate while you are there, while you come and go from the room many times.

When you leave or come home, don't make a big fuss over your dog. Ignore him until he calms down, then a quiet hello and a brief pat will do. When you leave, just go, no good-bye or anything. Practice going through your getting-ready-to-leave routine without going anywhere. Pick up your keys, your purse, your jacket, etc., and ignore the dog. Walk to the door and then turn and come right back in, ignoring him. Soon those visual cues will not have meaning and he will not react to them.

Leave on a TV or radio so the house doesn't seem so empty. A recording with your voice on it sometimes helps, too. Canine education classes will also improve your dog’s confidence.

If all else fails, ask your veterinarian about medicating your dog while he gets used to spending time alone. Sometimes just one tranquilizer one time is all it takes. Or your dog may have to take calming medication for several months. There are several drugs available that specifically treat anxiety in dogs.

Give the solutions presented here plenty of time to work. It takes several weeks for a dog to learn a new behavior pattern and make it a habit. A few weeks invested in training will result in many happy years with your well-adjusted companion!

Sources

How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford & David H. Neil
Choosing a Dog for Life by Andrew De Prisco, et al
Dog Training in 10 Minutes by Carol Lea Benjamin